Tastes of Africa

My choices of countries to visit were driven by very diverse ideas, perhaps very fitting as each country/group of countries was totally different to the other and each provided me with different insights, knowledge and emotions of every sort. Some of the experiences could have been better but every country had some amazing aspects which will stay with me for a long time. The people I met, both fellow tourists and local people helped me have some wonderful and fun experiences and those following me from afar spurred me into spending a couple of hours a day writing and battling  some terrible technology connections. 

I have learned heaps about the history of each country, more about the animals of Africa, been enlightened about the diverse spiritual beliefs of the people of this amazing continent, eaten local foods throughout my trip and learned much about the different cultures. But most of I have been inspired by the resilience of the people, the way they have not been defined by their way of life,  the way they have adapted to lives full of interference by tourists trying to change them, amazed by their humility and have seen how poverty is not necessarily based around ones financial situation as those we consider ‘poor’ are often richer than us. 

My trip is over. I have just been googling the possibilities for my next trip but before that planning starts I have summarised the high and low lights of this amazing African adventure. 

Rwanda

Of course my most vivid memory of Rwanda will undoubtedly be the gorilla experience. From the gruelling hike, to the comerarderie along the way, to that moment when I first saw that dark shadow in the thick jungle. That hour shared with these magnificent creatures was indescribable and will stay with me for a very long time. 
The eyes of the babies peering out of that fur ball had me transfixed. The strength and sheer size of the silverback as he walked towards me was both terrifying and exciting. And when I was pushed out of the way as not one, but two, of the group moved past me I was left gob smacked. The hike was gruelling but worth every second of breathlessness, pain and tiredness just to see those gentle giants right there, in front of me. So, so worth it. 

On a more human level having learned so much about the recent history of the country and spoken at length to people from both sides of the conflict I was amazed at the resilience of these people. An entire generation of people no longer exist and yet those who were young and lived, many under dire circumstances, through the genocide have come through with humility, forgiveness and a will to build a better country for everyone. I want to return in say 10 years as I believe this country will, by then, be a power house of Africa. 

Ethiopia 

Ethiopia was a different, totally different experience to Rwanda. Addis Ababa is a complex city where poverty and wealth live side by side, where staunch Ethiopian Orthodox believers live next to Moslems in harmony and manage to accommodate each others beliefs, customs and traditions in what seems to be a genuine way.  I could see that Addis Ababa was a quickly changing city with hotels going up everywhere. It still offers an opportunity to enjoy the Ethiopian ways but I fear that tourism is starting to take hold and will eventually spoil the place. Sad. 

Further south the tribes of the Omo Valley display the type of living that we call sub-standard or ‘under the poverty line’. It seemed to me that the tribes we saw with the least were the ones with the biggest smiles and the least tourist directed ‘begging’. They had nothing materialistic, a mud hut, a few animals, no clothes to speak of, no water, no electricity and certainly none of our ‘necessities’.   The tribes that were more demanding of the tourist also had more stuff, less tradition and were starting to lend towards western way. Their smiles didn’t seem as genuine and they were more persistent in ways to extract the tourist dollar. The experiences I had with the tribes taught me more about what is important in life than anything I have encountered. 

In the town of Lalibella I was blown away by the amazing rock hewn churches.  How they were even conceived, let alone constructed, still perplexes me. The magnificence of each of the structures I saw is indescribable. One of those things you need to experience to be able to understand. Not only was I amazed by the churches but by the way the parishioners kept to the churches traditions and made huge sacrifices for their beliefs. 

Ethiopia was a country of so many contrasts underpinned by the staunch beliefs of it’s people. Whether Moslem, Orthodox, Animist or otherwise the people were driven by age old traditions that formed the core of their existence.    I would have loved to have spent more time there exploring some of the smaller places. Next time... 

West Africa

Senegal 

Sadly, I didn’t learn too much about Senegal or the way people lived. What I saw I loved. There do not appear to be any big tourist focussed projects happening and that was refreshing because despite being more ‘modern’ than Ethiopia it still retains its own charm. 
The slave trade history both here and in The Gambia were real eye openers. Sadly for some of the generations that followed the years of slave trading things have not improved for them much in some of the countries they were sent to. 

Dakar had much to see but the one place that struck me was the Museum of Black Civilisations which took me on a voyage across Africa through the ages, through the different cultures, past and present and paid homage to the African people that have made the continent what it is today. 

That aside the things that struck me most, given the lack of knowledge passed on by our guide, were purely superficial but at the same time contributed hugely to the beauty of the country.

The beautifully dressed women in ‘African Attire’, the stunning fabrics, headgear and the way they presented themselves had me turning my head and staring on many occasions. 

The seafood, which I dined on most every day of my stay, was some of the best ever. Whether it was crustacea or fish it was always so fresh you could taste the sea and often cooked simply to make the most of the delicious flavours. Despite having visited the putrid fish markets I wasn’t put off. 
Close behind the seafood was the delicious ‘Pollo Yassou’ a divine dish of chicken cooked in a lemon and onion sauce. Stunningly sweet offset with the tang of lemon that left me wanting more; I loved it. Senegalese food was the best of my trip and worthy of a return visit. 

The Gambia

Sadly, I didn’t see enough of The Gambia to make any sweeping comments but I did enjoy a nice  break hanging round the pool and had the best massage ever. 

Southern Africa

My only reason for this part of my adventure was to visit the Okavango Delta. I had few expectations and knew that other than the Delta it would be a trip of many hours on the road looking at meagre amounts of wildlife that could never ever compare to the wildlife experiences I’d had in the past. It was pretty much as I expected but I enjoyed the trip, had many many laughs and it was probably a good way to wind down after the busy time I’d had. 
Namibia

Again, my stay in Namibia bought no great insights but the areas we drove through showed stark contrasts to the areas further north that I had just come from. Great roads, modern towns and cities, even ‘real’ shops made for a pleasant change from the more basic places further north. 

BotswanaWith the exception of the experience with the San people Botswana was all about scenery and animals. The San people experience, although wonderful was not as insightful as the time I spent with the tribes in the Omo Valley but still added a human element to my Botswana experience. 

Despite the Okavango Delta being so dry, the animal experience nothing to write home about and the houseboat comfort level at a generous two star, the Delta visit was my favourite. The quiet, the calm and the openess were magnificent and the general camararderie amongst us was special. This was a time to sit back, relax and recover and I loved it. 
I didn’t expect to be excited by the wildlife, and I wasn’t although most of my fellow travellers were.  Sometimes having experienced extra special events as I had at Timbavati (the private reserve off Kruger where they run the white lion project) and at Naboisho (the conservancy off the Maasai Mara where I spent some time volunteering) means that subsequent events never quite excite you. That’s what happened here with the wildlife but it was fun watching the reactions of the others. 
I learned little about Botswana, its people, traditions or behaviours but what I saw was only positive. Eventually, after visiting a number of African countries I got to hear people speaking with ‘clicks’, something that is hard to replicate but fascinating to listen to. 

Botswana, although promoted for its wildlife, offered me little in the way of culture, tradition and intrigue. I’m glad I went and after all these years ticked the Okavango Delta off my list but I would not hurry to return. 
ZimbabweVictoria Falls was the star attraction in the visit to Zimbabwe and having been blown away at Iguacū last year I was not in the least excited about the visit. It was pretty much as I expected and with the lack of water paled into insignificance. 
Zimbabwe has a rich and recent history of which we did not learn much. Their currency is worthless, poverty and unemployment at at all time high and I expected we woukd be going into a very basic area. I was pleasantly surprised to find the township of Victoria Falls as the cutest place I had been on my travels.  Supported by the tourist dollar there were no signs of the mayhem that has reportedly taken over the rest of the country and here I found the people to be extra eager to please, happy and polite. Sure there were tourist touts, but they exist in every tourist town, and here none of them looked as though they were hungry or poor. 
I don’t know what the rest of the country is like, and I know that there are many people who have fled to South Africa to find work (our guide and our driver just two of them) but Victoria Falls is possibly the jewel of Zimbabwe and I loved it. 
The experience at ‘The Boma’ and the walk into Zambia were the icing in the cake and the perfect endings to my travel.


Writing blogs each day sometimes seems like a chore, then I think of the book I will turn the blogs into and carry on. The books let me relive my travels over and over which I love but sometimes wonder if they are worth the effort. 
Then I get emails from friends encouraging me and I realise the blogs are not just for me but my followers as well. Messages like this one below keep me wanting to carry on. 

”It has been a pleasure to read your mostly daily blog. You are certainly blessed with good fortune to be able to make these special journeys and adventures. We, your readers and followers are blessed to have you share with us. You give of your time so we could live through your experiences.  Thanks for all that and more. Some will ask why all that trouble to travel so far and under such difficult conditions by our everyday standards?  Well , I personally love your posts but nothing beats the adrenaline rush of a new country, different cultures, foods, and for me the animals.  Can’t wait to go back. But I will not write a blog like you. I could never write like you. YOU ARE SPECIAL HELEN. “
Thank you Beata, you keep me going. 
Back in the real world I’m struggling. I walk along the street and already I am sick of the arrogant people who think they own the space, the smokers and vapers who have no idea how much their habits stink, the skate boarders and scooter riders who like the others dont give a toss about anyone else and then the people who look as though they have just stepped our of bed. To top it all off they all look grumpy. 
How is it that not a couple of weeks ago I left a continent where many of the people would not be able to dream about our life as it is totally beyond comprehension and yet they are all full of smiles, polite, clean, tidy, gracious and thankful for what they have. I think they are the lucky ones. 
I can’t wait to go back.